A few days ago I returned to Australia after spending 4 weeks touring various parts of New Zealand. I am now ready to detail my impressions of New Zealand.
New Zealand is a small country in the South Pacific Ocean, located 1200 miles southeast of Australia. It consists of two main islands, called the North Island and the South Island. Auckland, the largest city, is located on the North Island. Christchurch, the second largest city, is located on the South Island. Wellington, the capital and third largest city, is on the southern tip of the North Island – a good central location for the country as a whole. I visited all 3 of these cities, along with journeys by train, bus, ferry, and car through various rural areas and small towns.
The entire country has around 4.3 million people – not a lot of people. The US state of Colorado is a close match to New Zealand both in terms of total land area and total population. The climate is generally cool and rainy, but the local climate can vary considerably from one place to another. Most parts of the country are either hilly or mountainous, but there are some flat areas, the largest being the Canterbury Plains on the east side of the South Island.
For people outside of Australia and New Zealand, the two countries appear to be closely related siblings – much like the US and Canada are similar to each other. In fact, this impression is largely true – the two countries have a lot in common, including a shared language, a similar colonial history, and very close trade and political ties. For me, therefore, my most interesting discoveries were the details that set New Zealand apart from Australia – the things that make New Zealand unique.
During my 12 weeks in Australia, prior to visiting New Zealand, it seemed to me that the relationship between the two countries was about as close as two countries could get. Residents of New Zealand have to the right to live and work in Australia without obtaining a visa – and vice versa. As a result, lots of New Zealanders do in fact live in Australia. Australia is the leading export market for New Zealand products. New Zealand attended the constitutional conventions that resulted in the combining of 6 distinct British colonies into a new entity called Australia in 1901. However, New Zealand chose not to join the new union.
I gained a new perspective on the relationship between the two countries during my 4 weeks in New Zealand. I saw that New Zealanders (or “kiwis” as they like to call themselves) are almost desperate to distinguish themselves from Australia, to step out from the shadow of their larger neighbor – despite the close and friendly ties. You’ll often hear New Zealanders make subtle digs at Australia, while I seldom if ever heard Australians making digs at New Zealand. This reminds me a lot of the relationship between Canada and the US, and the efforts that Canadians make to distinguish themselves from the US.
For me, there were 6 differences between New Zealand and Australia that most impressed me:
1. Differences in the pre-European inhabitants of the two countries
2. Differences in the native plants and animals
3. Differences in the geology and geologic history
4. Differences in the economies, particularly the export products
5. Differences in the landscapes
6. Differences in government land ownership
There were two other attributes that particularly caught my attention:
7. Details regarding New Zealand’s largest cities
8. The large number of immigrants living in both New Zealand and Australia
So here are my thoughts on the above 8 topics:
1. Pre-European Inhabitants
Despite the relatively close proximity of Australia and New Zealand, the two countries are extraordinarily different in terms of their pre-European inhabitants. Australia has been inhabited for tens of thousands of years by aboriginal people who were part of a long-ago human migration from Africa, eastward along the south coast of Asia, and on to New Guinea and Australia via land bridges that existed during the ice ages. The people were primarily hunter-gatherers with a relatively simple material culture.
New Zealand has only been inhabited by humans for around 800 years. The pre-European inhabitants, known as Maori, are Polynesians who migrated long distances by boat from other Pacific Islands located far to the northeast of New Zealand. They had an agricultural society, and brought with them their familiar crops and domestic animals – although not all of the imported plants survived in the colder climate of New Zealand. As an agricultural society, the Maoris were able to support a greater population density than the Australian aborigines. This in turn led to a more developed material culture, along with a more hierarchical society. When the Europeans finally arrived, the Maoris were well-practiced in warfare and could offer a stronger resistance to the intrusion of the whites than the Australian aboriginals could.
Because the aboriginals and the Maori came from completely different parts of the world, they look quite difference and speak entirely unrelated languages. They have little in common, other than that they both arrived before the Europeans did – and that they had both became intimately familiar with the landscape and with the native plants and animals of their lands.
Today, Australian aborigines comprise only 2.6% of the Australian population, while Maoris constitute 15% of the New Zealand population. Furthermore, another 7% of the New Zealand population is composed of Pacific Islanders, whose ancestors migrated to New Zealand in the past century from other Pacific islands. The Pacific Islanders share a similar culture and language to the Maori. The upshot is that Maori and Pacific culture is a powerful force both politically and in forming the national identity of the New Zealand people. The Maori language is an official language of New Zealand, along with English, and most official signage is printed in both languages. You can tune to Maori-language broadcasts on television, including newscasters presenting the news in Maori. Maori themes and topics are ubiquitous in tourist gift shops and literature – far more than aboriginal themes and topics appear in gift shops in Australia.
Of course, Maoris and Pacific Islanders are not distributed evenly throughout New Zealand. I spent my first week in Auckland – where many of the Pacific Islanders live – and the second week in the central highlands of the North Island – where some of the towns have very large Maori populations. But in the South Island I encountered much less Maori influence. On the other hand, everywhere I went, the names of nearly every native plant and animal – especially trees and birds – were of Maori origin. In contrast, in Australia relatively few of the native plants and animals are commonly known by their aboriginal names.
Although the Maoris have not always been treated well by the “pakehas” (New Zealanders of European descent), the Maoris have usually gotten a much better deal than the aborigines of Australia. In particular, the Maoris received the right to vote in 1902, while the aborigines of Australia did not receive the right to vote until 1962 – about the same time as the Civil Rights movement in the US.
2. Native Plants and Animals
When we think of the native wildlife of Australia, most of us first think of kangaroos and koalas. When we think of New Zealand, we think of kiwi birds. But other than the presence of kiwi birds, I had expected the native plants and animals of New Zealand to have a lot in common with the native flora and fauna of Australia. I was quite surprised to find that this is not the case at all.
First of all, Australia is widely known for its wide range of marsupials – not just kangaroos and koalas, but also wallabies, possums, bandicoots, wombats, and so on. I had expected to see other unique marsupials in New Zealand. However, New Zealand has no native mammals at all, other than a few species of bats. None! As a result, birds, insects, and reptiles had evolved to fill the ecological niches that in most other places are filled by mammals. Many of these native animals are now rare or extinct, but it is still fascinating to ponder the many species of flightless birds that once lived in New Zealand, or to view the giant wetas – large insects related to crickets.
As for trees, the forests of Australia are best known for the 600 different species of eucalyptus. I had expected that the native forests of New Zealand would also contain many species of eucalyptus. Again, my expectations were completely wrong. There are no native eucalyptus species in New Zealand. Instead, the native forests are populated by trees that seemed quite different from most of the trees that I had learned or seen in Australia.
Finally, I had thought that I would see many interesting species of native wildflowers in New Zealand, just as I had done in Australia. In fact, I saw hardly any native wildflowers at all. Part of the issue is that I did not visit New Zealand at the correct time of year to see the wildflowers. But it also appears that New Zealand, unlike Australia, does not have such a wealth of wildflowers. In parts of the South Island, there is a great deal of publicity about the colorful wild lupines that bloom in the spring – but these are escaped garden flowers that are not native to New Zealand.
On the other hand, New Zealand has an amazing variety in its species of ferns. These range from very small ferns to giants that take the form of trees. Ferns dominant the understory of most forests, especially the tree ferns. The large number of species translates into a wide range of leaf forms. Second only to kiwi birds, ferns are considered emblematic of New Zealand, and consequently fern images are ubiquitous in New Zealand as logos and other graphic representations.
Speaking of kiwi birds, I was surprised to learn that there are 5 species of kiwis – not just one – and that four of the species are quite rare and extremely limited in their geographic ranges. The four rare species are native to the South Island, and are found only in small pockets on the relatively undisturbed west coast. The one species that is relatively common – the North Island Brown Kiwi – is found only on the North Island, and even this species is rarely seen.
3. Geology and Geologic History
Prior to my visit to New Zealand, I knew that the country sits along the Pacific Ring of Fire – a zone of earthquakes and volcanoes that surrounds the Pacific Ocean – while Australia does not. I also knew that the South Island is famous for its mountains. But otherwise I had not thought much about the geology of New Zealand, and I assumed by default that the geology must be somewhat similar to that of Australia. Therefore I was surprised to learn that the geology and geologic history of New Zealand are quite different from that of Australia – although there are some common elements, due to the fact that New Zealand was once attached to Australia.
Australia is an ancient continent – much of the land was created a very long time ago. As a result, there are extensive areas of Precambrian rock in Australia, while no Precambrian rock can be found in New Zealand at all. Many of the places that I have visited in eastern Australia are dominated by flat layers of sandstone deposits, including the Blue Mountains just to the west of Sydney. In contrast, much of the land in New Zealand’s North Island is of volcanic origin. The South Island includes large areas of marine deposts that have been metamorphosed and uplifted.
Because New Zealand sits along the Pacific Ring of Fire, I was not at all surprised that a plate boundary (between two tectonic plates) passes nearby. But I was quite surprised to learn that the plate boundary actually passes through the South Island, and that as a result, most of the South Island sits on a different plate than the does the North Island. The North Island sits on the Australian plate – the same plate that Australia sits on. Most of the South Island sits on the Pacific Plate – the same plate that Los Angeles sits on. (Note: Most of North America sits on the North American plate. But the coast of California southward from San Francisco – the land that is west of the San Andreas fault – sits on the Pacific plate.)
Even more surprising is that the boundary between the Pacific and Australian plates is moving in opposite directions in different parts of the boundary. Parallel to the east coast of the North Island, the Pacific plate dives westward beneath the Australian plate. The subducting Pacific plate melts as it slides beneath the North Island, resulting in ongoing volcanic activity in various parts of the North Island. South of the South Island, the Australian plate is sliding eastward beneath the Pacific plate. The crossover zone, where neither plate can slide beneath the other, is the mountainous region down the west side of the South Island – the New Zealand Alps. In this zone the two plates crush together in a transverse fault, uplifting the mountains.
The upshot is that the North Island is full of volcanic cones and geothermal activity, while the South Island has the highest mountains and the most serious earthquakes. I was quite surprised to learn that most of the hills in the city of Auckland are volcanic cinder cones. It was also interesting to see that while the beaches in Australia are full of white sand – quartz sand eroded from the sandstone and other rocks – the beaches in New Zealand are often black or gray, and often pebbly.
4. Economies and Exports
Because of the tight ties and similar history between Australia and New Zealand, I expected the two countries to have similar economies. But in many respects the two economies are quite different. Australia’s export economy depends to a large extent on mining, and the boom times in Australia right now are primarily due to the high demand in China for Australia’s mineral exports – such as iron ore and coal. Australia also has a noteworthy manufacturing sector. In contrast, New Zealand’s economy is primarily agricultural. Much of New Zealand’s land is dedicated to grazing. The resulting products include wool and dairy products, which are exported in large quantities. New Zealand also exports a lot of timber, the vast majority of which is Monterrey pine (Pinus radiata), a tree native to the west coast of California. New Zealand also exports various horticultural products, such as kiwi fruit and other fruits and vegetables. Fishing is also an important export industry. Supplementing these exports, tourism is also an important source of income for the country.
The upshot is that the economies of the two countries are quite different. Yet both countries are prosperous, with a high standard of living. The two economies are somewhat complementary, and as a result the two countries engage in a lot of trade with each other.
5. Differences in the Landscapes
Although much of Australia is desert or semi-desert, the lands near the East coast, where most of the people live, receive adequate amounts of rain all year – or in some cases (as in the recent Queensland floods) too much rain. Flat-topped mountains and plateaus, composed of flat layers of sandstone, rise up as you head inland from the coast. Outside of the population centers, most of the mountains and hills are covered by eucalyptus forests. Sheltered valleys often contain fern trees and other “rain forest” vegetation. (Australians refer to all of the moist forests as “rain forests”, regardless of the actual amount of rainfall.) Westward, beyond the eastern mountain ranges, the land becomes increasingly arid, first turning to grasslands, and finally to deserts. The grasslands of the eastern interior have largely been replaced by irrigated agriculture, similar to the Central Plains of the US.
New Zealand has a very different set of landscapes. Most of New Zealand is either mountainous or hilly – although the Canterbury Plain on the South Island is an important exception. The mountains of New Zealand tend to be steep and rugged, usually lacking the flat tops so common in Australia. The mountains in the South Island are also taller than the mountains of Australia. In its original, natural state, prior to the arrival of humans, 85% of New Zealand was covered by native forests. These forests were dense and quite green, in contrast to the more open and dryer eucalyptus forests of Australia. The remaining 15% of New Zealand consisted primarily of lands that were too high and cold for forest, but it also included places where the soil was too soggy to support forest.
When the Maoris arrived around 1300 AD, they began to cut and burn large areas of forest – to clear agricultural lands, to encourage the growth of bracken fern (an important food source), and to make use of the lumber. By the time Europeans arrived in the early 1800s, the native forest had shrunk from 85% to 55% of the land. The Europeans very quickly destroyed another 30 percentage points, reducing the native forest to just 25% of the land. Much of that 25% is located far from the population and agricultural centers. In the parts of the North Island that I passed through by train or bus, it seemed that far less than 25% of the land was in native forest. In the parts of the South Island that I passed through by train or automobile, native forest had been completely eliminated from at least 99% of the land. To my eyes, much of New Zealand looked like one huge ecological disaster. Instead of native forests, I saw miles and miles of land kept artificially in pasture by the grazing of sheep and cows. In those places where I did see forest, it was almost always in the form of non-native lumber plantations (mostly Monterrey pine) being grown for quick harvest and export.
However, I know that my sample does represent all of New Zealand, despite my traveling 2/3 of the length of the North Island, and half the length of the South Island. For one thing, except for a short stretch in the northeastern part of the South Island, I saw almost no lands dedicated to horticulture, and yet I know that New Zealand grows fruits and vegetables. And the very rainy and rugged West coast of the South Island is likely to be quite different from most of the lands that I saw.
Near the town of Rotorua in the North Island, there is a much-beloved forest that the local people call “the Redwood Forest”. The entire forest consists of non-native trees. The most spectacular section – and the part that is most visited – is a section of several acres planted entirely in California Redwoods. Many people recommended that I visit the Redwood Forest while I was in Rotorua – which of course I did. And indeed it was a very beautiful forest. But I would have liked to have seen a native forest that was equally loved.
The most spectacular landscapes I saw in New Zealand were on the South Island, as we drove inland from Christchurch to see the Southern Alps and the glacial lakes extending south and east from the Alps. We spent two days and nights in the region of Lake Tekapo, Lake Pukaki, and Mt. Cook – the highest mountain in New Zealand. During those days the western slopes of the Alps were covered by dense clouds and heavy rain. The eastern part of the island was mostly sunny and clear. As we approached Mt. Cook from the east, we transitioned in the last few miles from sunshine to light rain and clouds, and finally heavy rain. Mt. Cook was completely hidden by the clouds. Although the Hooker Valley, where we had planned to hike, was getting drenched with rain, the Tasman Valley a few miles away was receiving only light sprinkles. So we did our hiking in the Tasman Valley instead. (Both valleys contain glaciers, so we still got to see a glacier.) On the way back east, the strong winds from the west were blowing raindrops horizontally into areas where the sun was shining brightly. The result was a huge, non-stop rainbow that followed us for miles and miles as we drove.
6. Government Land Ownership
I definitely got the impression that the government in New Zealand is more hands-off than the government in Australia. There used to be several national forests in New Zealand, but these forests were sold off to private companies. There are no agricultural subsidies in New Zealand, but the agricultural sector seems to be doing fine without them. There are only a few national parks in the country, although some of these few are quite spectacular. I was surprised, for example, that despite the many examples of amazing geothermal activity in the North Island – and something found only in 3 countries in the world (the US, New Zealand, and Iceland) – I could not find a national park equivalent to Yellowstone in the US. Most of the best examples of geothermal activity (geysers, etc.) are in private parks. It is far too pricey to visit more than about two of these private parks, so you have to decide which one or two to visit, out of the many that seek your business. I should hasten to point out that some of these private parks are in Maori hands, and there are cultural, historical, and political reasons for leaving them that way. Still, I was quite surprised that there is no geothermal national park.
In contrast, I am amazed and delighted at the many beautiful national parks that are within a relatively short drive of Sydney, Australia. Not only are these parks quite beautiful, but they make it fairly easy to see diverse examples of native forest.
7. New Zealand’s Largest Cities
I spent time in each of New Zealand’s three largest cities – Auckland, Christchurch, and Wellington. None of the cities is very large by US or Australian standards. I like the resulting “small city” feel – fairly quiet, relatively easy to get around, and not very far to any destination in the city.
Auckland, the largest city in New Zealand, occupies a narrow isthmus on the North Island, and as a result the city spans across the island from the East coast to the West coast – a distance of about 10 miles. The downtown overlooks a harbor on the East coast, and includes the Sky Tower – the tallest building in the southern hemisphere. There are lots of students in the city, many of them visiting from Asia. Auckland also has more Pacific Islanders in its population than any other city in the world. The city is quite hilly, and most of the hills originated as volcanic cinder cones.
Christchurch, the second largest city, sits on a flat plain on the East coast of the South Island, but only a short drive to the towering Southern Alps. The city is often described as “the most English of New Zealand’s cities”, and the description fits. The placid Avon River – really just a large stream – winds through the town, and “punt boats” glide up and down the river through the botanical garden. These boats, popular with tourists, are driven by human power – the operator uses a pole to push against the river bottom. At present, the city sidewalks are an obstacle course because of the recent earthquakes. Fences block off the sidewalks in front of all of the damaged buildings, to prevent falling bricks from landing on anyone’s head. Still it is a charming town to visit.
Wellington, the nation’s capital and third largest city, sits on the southern tip of the North Island. The downtown area occupies a tiny strip of land between the harbor and an area of tall, steeply rising hills. It is a dramatic and beautiful setting for a city, and it is this city that most captured my interest. The hills behind the city center remind me of the Oakland and Berkeley hills – and in fact many things about the city reminded me of San Francisco. This impression was reinforced by all the Monterey Cypress trees growing on the hillsides, along with the Monterey Pines. I stayed in Wellington for a full week and went on very long walks almost every day, exploring in many different directions from the downtown.
8. Immigrants in New Zealand and Australia
In both Australia and New Zealand, nearly a quarter of the population is foreign born – an amazingly high percentage. This is double the percentage in the US, where only 1/8 of the population is foreign born. The largest source of immigrants for both countries is Great Britain, and another major source is each other – New Zealanders in Australia and Australians in New Zealand. However, it the Asian immigrants, particularly the Chinese, that are the most obvious, especially in the central business districts of any large city. Already there is a generation of young people growing up with Asian faces and Australian or New Zealand accents.
Both Australia and New Zealand have a low population density. Australia is nearly the same size as the continental US, and yet has only 1/10 as many people. The policy in both countries is that economic growth will require population growth, and therefore the immigration of young people with important skills should be encouraged. In Australia, the state of Western Australia is especially eager to grow its population through immigration. That said, neither country wants to throw its borders wide open – they want to be somewhat selective as to who gets in. And among the general population there are a few ripples of anti-immigrant sentiment, and as a result the governments of both countries have to take a balanced approach to immigration.
Concluding Details
My visit to New Zealand left me with a few additional impressions:
1) Black appears to be national color in New Zealand – despite the predominantly blue national flag (which, by the way, is nearly identical to the national flag of Australia). Most of the athletic wear I saw in New Zealand was black – black T-shirts, black running shorts, black socks, black tank tops, etc. As I walked around Wellington on a warm day, nearly all of the “kiwis” appeared to wearing black summer wear of one sort or another. In Melbourne, Australia, I also saw a lot of black clothing, but that was business wear and winter coats. In the US, most summer wear tends to be either white or brightly colored. So this was quite an interesting phenomenon to me.
2) New Zealanders have a different accent than Australians – although I would be hard pressed to identify the precise differences. The New Zealand accent seems gentler to me, and I liked hearing it. I was surprised at how often I encountered specific references to the New Zealand accent – including two shows on television musing on questions of national identity.
3) Many, many places in New Zealand are exceedingly proud that one scene or another in the Lord of the Rings trilogy was filmed at some nearby location. I kept encountering references to the films in tourist literature, on television, and even on signs in city parks. New Zealanders are well aware that most foreigners know nothing whatsoever about their country – except that the Lord of the Rings was filmed there. If this is all that many foreigners know about New Zealand, then you’ve got to milk it for all it’s worth!